A DIY minifigure display case has two jobs: hold the characters in the arrangement you want and give you a practical way to remove them. Start with the figures and their bases. Design the clear cover after the rows, accessories and hand access are understood.
This guide describes a removable-row concept for a small freestanding case. The illustration is a layout example, not a photograph of a tested build. For acrylic fabrication, follow the panel layout and assembly guide with documentation for your chosen sheet and joints.
1. Measure the largest complete figure
Include hats, hair, wings, capes and items held in the hands. Measure on the intended display plate in the final pose. A standard figure without accessories is a poor template for a wizard’s hat or an extended weapon.
Make a paper outline of the largest footprint and height. Use it to test every proposed position, including the top row and the positions nearest the side panels. Do not let a tall figure depend on bending its headgear under the cover.
2. Lay out removable rows
Place the figure plates on a removable row carrier rather than permanently attaching the figures to an acrylic panel. You can then take out a row to rearrange characters away from the enclosure. Decide how the carrier is located on the base and how it is lifted without touching the figures.
For a rectangular layout, the useful calculation is: total clear row width equals the sum of each occupied footprint, the gaps between positions and the two end margins. Use your measured footprints. Multiplying the number of figures by a standard torso width misses side accessories and access space. For a carrier made from the parts you own, explore the brick-built two-row module.
3. Check depth as carefully as height
Review the arrangement from the front and from the side. A rear row can hide behind a front row even when every figure technically fits. A stepped arrangement can improve the view, but it also changes the rear row’s overall height and the way the carrier is supported.
Before making risers, try the arrangement with temporary cardboard blocks on the work surface. Record the layout you prefer. This mock-up helps establish geometry and sightlines; it does not rate a shelf or validate a wall fixing.
4. Choose the opening around your hands
A lift-off cover suits a layout you can reach from above. Allow room to lift it and put it down safely. A front-opening enclosure suits a fixed shelf, but the opening must admit the largest row carrier as well as your fingers.
Keep locating points accessible. Adhesive or screws intended for the case structure should not become permanent attachments to collectible figures. If you bond a carrier component, keep that process separate from the LEGO elements and follow the adhesive’s material instructions.
5. Make an empty-case acceptance list
- Check that every carrier can be removed through the opening.
- Check the largest accessory in the edge and top positions.
- Confirm that the cover closes without contacting figures.
- Confirm that the empty enclosure rests securely on its base.
- Record the safe handling points and the space needed for cleaning.
Choose sheet thickness and support from the actual panel spans and construction. The ACRYLITE calculators distinguish support and loading arrangements; a capacity such as “16 figures” is not a structural specification.
Should a large collection use one wide case?
Several accessible bays may be easier to service than one uninterrupted panel. Use the large minifigure display design guide for that separate project. If you prefer a ready-made enclosure, compare minifigure display cases and check each product’s layout.
Sources and editorial method
Sources reviewed 15 October 2026. This article uses published documentation and original explanatory diagrams. It does not report a hands-on product test.
